São Miguel: 5 places where volcanic essence paints the island

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Located in the Portuguese archipelago of the Azores, the Island of Rainbows reflects a striking beauty that blends perfectly with the Atlantic Ocean. Considered the Hawaii of Europe by locals since the dawn of time, São Miguel attracts the attention of travelers from all over the world and this title is no longer just international poetry, it has become a reality in the eyes of all. Bathed in a subtropical climate, this Garden of Eden with eternal spring is the largest of the 9 islands that make up the Azores. The archipelago constitutes the westernmost point of Europe and the most isolated group of islands in the North Atlantic! Having stayed there for a full month, I can humbly affirm that it is indeed 744.6 km² of pure bliss. With its volcanic essence, São Miguel stands out as a true postcard. For lovers of the geomorphology of our beautiful planet, volcanology, and/or geology, this is an intriguing destination. Feel free to listen to the following soundtrack to add some musical ambiance to your reading.

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Before you set out to explore the island, I highly recommend starting your trip at the Azores Volcanological and Geothermal Observatory. Located in the town of Lagoa (southern part of the island), this research institute will help you gain an introduction to the volcanological history of São Miguel and understand the geomorphology of the island and the Azores. Your perspective will be very different thanks to the knowledge you will have gained when you explore the island on your own. Arrive Monday to Friday between 2:30 PM and 4:30 PM for the 45-minute guided tour. The entrance fee is 2.50 euros per person. Parking is free. Bonne visite!

1 - PONTA DELGADA

The island's capital, Ponta Delgada, is also the most important economic center of the Azores, dating back more than five centuries. This city was once a small fishing village until the old capital, Vila Franca do Campo, was the unfortunate victim of an earthquake in 1522. Ponta Delgada's rise was therefore sudden and rapid. The inhabitants of the time used local resources (particularly basalt and limestone) to erect buildings that today stand as precious testimonies to the past. If you stroll through these safe streets, these remains are a true invitation to travel back in time. But why, you might ask, are these buildings so unique? In two words: basalt. This volcanic igneous rock, formed when magma cools rapidly, gives the local architecture a profoundly volcanic essence. Take, for example, the famous City Gates (Portas da Cidade). These majestic arches, located in Gonçalo Velho Cabral Square, are not only a symbol of the city's defense, but also embody the history of the Azores. And if you're lucky enough to visit at sunrise or sunset, you'll be dazzled by the magical play of light that highlights the golden hues of the basalt, creating a perfect harmony with the nighttime atmosphere.

Ponta Delgada is often the starting point (Day 1) for travelers, particularly thanks to its proximity to the airport, just a 45-minute walk away (or a 15-minute drive, for those in a hurry). Suggestion: why not explore the city through a route dedicated to the oldest monuments showcasing this iconic stone of the Azores? To make it easier, here are some must-sees to mark on your map: the Church of São José, the Fort of São Brás, the Church of São Sebastião, the Gonçalo Velho Cabral Square (Praça Gonçalo Velho Cabral), the Largo do Colégio and the tower of the Church of São Sebastião. A true historical stroll where every street corner tells a part of the island's volcanic past.

▶ Tested and recommended accomodation : Hostel Island Bliss.

▶ Car rental : directly at the airport (PDL). Excellent service with Wayzor.

▶ Restaurants & Cafés : Dondué, Municipal Library Café, La Gelateria.

▶ Activities : whale and dolphin watching tour (eco-responsible tourism), private pineapple wine tasting and tour.

2 - PRAIA DOS MOINHOS & PRAIA DOS MOSTEIROS

Although we can't determine the exact number of black sand beaches around the world, they are quite rare (compared to white or golden sand beaches) since they are located in volcanic or geologically active regions. These are usually formed from volcanic ash and rock that breaks into fine particles, which is why they are my favorite beaches! Idealized by photographers and admired by travelers, it's therefore difficult to miss them without fully enjoying them.

As for Praia dos Moinhos, it is located on the northern part of São Miguel, more precisely in Porto Formoso. Surrounded by a real wild beauty, you can breathe the sea air of the Atlantic between the hills and cliffs that envelop this haven of peace. Less frequented by tourists due to its geographical location, the latter is the perfect stop during the high season (May to September) for a dose of tranquility. Although swimming is possible, you must be careful of the currents which can be strong and which can unfortunately take you a little too far into the ocean (you must then choose carefully the moment when you go to say your greetings to the marine fauna). In the event that calm is the order of the day, Praia dos Moinhos proudly displays its blue flag, a symbol of its quality and safety (lifeguarded beach during the tourist season).

▶ Accessibility : facilities designed for people with reduced mobility.

▶ On-site services : bar & showers.

▶ Entrance fee : free.

The second black sand beach I want to tell you about is Praia dos Mosteiros, located on the western side of the island. The road to get there is different from other parts of São Miguel, as it winds along lush mountainsides, revealing verdant flora and beautiful picturesque villages. Once you arrive in the municipality of Mosteiros, which is located at sea level (40 minutes from Ponta Delgada), you can see for yourself its charm. Since Mosteiros is the result of a volcanic eruption many years ago, it is not surprising that our eyes turn to the following two attractions: the black sand beach (Praia dos Mosteiros) and the islets of Mosteiros (Ilhéus dos Mosteiros).

The beach stretches for approximately 500 meters. Although it's best known for its incredible sunsets, underwater lovers also flock here to explore its crystal-clear waters. On the agenda: sea turtles, colorful fish, octopuses, and dolphins. When the sea is a little rough, it's a popular destination for surfers.

The Mosteiros Islets, true natural gems of the Azores archipelago, are a must-see for stunning photographs. These four geological formations, majestically emerging about a kilometer offshore, are the remains of a small island that emerged from a hydromagmatic eruption, a rare phenomenon where water and lava interact to create astonishing structures. According to ancient legend, these islets are not only natural wonders, but also portals to Atlantis, the lost civilization that, according to mythological tales, disappeared into the depths of the ocean. For birdwatching enthusiasts, this is the perfect place to observe the birds that come to nest on São Miguel.

▶ Accessibility : free parking available for all 3 attractions.

▶ On-site services : toilets, showers, changing rooms and snack bar.

▶ Entrance fee : free.

▶ Caution : beware of the Portuguese galley snail (physalia), a particularly venomous creature capable of causing severe burns. These resemble jellyfish, and it is strongly recommended not to touch them, even if they are dead or washed up on a beach, as this specimen remains venomous at all times. They generally flock in greater numbers in the spring.

3 - FURNAS

One of the most tangible ways to truly experience the volcanic essence of the island is to head to Furnas, to be right in the heart of the fumaroles. Although located in a volcanic valley, few visitors know that Furnas was actually built in the crater of an ancient volcano! Its mystical natural beauty and geothermal phenomena are the two main reasons why so many tourists go there. The area benefits from dense and lush vegetation thanks to the humidity and heat from geothermal activity, making it a true paradise for nature lovers. Despite the number of interesting activities available on site (thermal baths, hiking, discovering the local cuisine—including the famous cozido cooking, etc.), I focused mainly on geothermal observation and the surrounding flora.

If, like me, you dream of feeling like a volcanologist on a mission or in a real open-air laboratory, you will have to get closer to the volcanic activity of the island. Although the Azores, including São Miguel, are located on the subduction zone between the Eurasian tectonic plate and the North American plate, the risk of eruption is low in the short term. The Volcanological and Seismological Observatory of the Azores (OVSA) regularly monitors volcanic and seismic phenomena. I recommend two essential sites for observing geothermal energy: Caldeiras da Lagoa das Furnas and Caldeiras das Furnas.

First stop: Caldeiras da Lagoa das Furnas. Let's be clear: you don't need to be an expert in seismology or eruptions to have privileged access to the site; you just have to stay away from the hot springs! Knowing that the springs, bubbling and fumaroles can reach temperatures of 90 to 100 °C, it's best to remain vigilant. The site allows you to stay away from direct dangers, since it is equipped with walkways, which will allow you to observe the gases escaping from the ground up close. Bonus for cat lovers: they like to wander around the site, which probably seems to them like a natural feline sauna.

▶ Accessibility : located on the shores of Lake Furnas. Parking available.

▶ On-site services : food truck, restrooms and souvenir counter.

▶ Entrance fee : 3 euros per person.

▶ Activities : visit to Furnas and the Terra Nostra Garden (full day guided tour package).

Second stop: Caldeiras das Furnas. The springs, bubbles, and fumaroles are located in the heart of the village of Furnas. The site is larger than the one previously mentioned and does not contain any walkways. You can observe the emissions of water vapor and hot gases coming from the ground as soon as you enter the village, as they are scattered in different areas. The flowers and shrubs that have been planted there soften the harsh landscape, which was probably more austere in the past. If you are interested in Earth science, the Furnas Monitoring and Research Center (FMRC) is a beautiful and interactive place where visitors can learn more about geothermal activity in the valley.

▶ Accessibility : free parking.

▶ On-site services : restaurants, supermarkets, public toilets, cafes & bakeries, etc. (you are in the center of the village, so you will have access to all services on foot).

▶ Entrance fee : free.

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In terms of flora, my greatest discovery was undoubtedly the Parque Terra Nostra. Recognized as one of the most beautiful gardens in Europe, it was founded in 1775 and embellished during the 19th century, notably in the English Romantic style, with exotic plant species brought from around the world. This tropical dream covers 12.5 hectares and is home to more than 2,000 plant species. Delicately landscaped and perfectly maintained, it features small bridges, magnificent ponds, impressive statues, mossy rocks, and a soothing atmosphere. As a bonus, you will find the park's emblematic feature, namely the large thermal pool filled with orange-red ferruginous water, at around 38–40°C. This water is naturally heated by the region's geothermal activity. The entrance fee is 16 euros per adult and 13.60 euros for children and seniors. Although the opening hours are from 10:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., I strongly recommend arriving as soon as it opens to avoid the crowds during peak season and, of course, to benefit from better light for your photos. There is no attached parking inside the park, but it is possible to find free parking on the surrounding streets. Bonne visite!

4 - PONTA DO ARNEL

If you thought the Azores were simply a postcard of greenery and blue ocean, wait until you lay eyes on the Ponta do Arnel lighthouse. Upon arrival, the steep black basalt cliffs greet you with all the panache of an adventure movie set. At the foot of these volcanic rock giants lies a volcanic pebble beach, proof positive that Mother Nature has a weakness for dramatic contrast. And then there's the lighthouse. Not just any lighthouse: the very first lighthouse in the archipelago, first lit in 1876. It proudly stands in the form of an octagonal white stone tower with a red cap, which once served as a GPS for sailors arriving from Portugal. It is said that even seagulls used it to find their way (unverified, but plausible)! Even today, the place lives to the rhythm of the lighthouse keepers, who provide maritime signaling and coastal safety on a 24-hour rotation. Pretty, quaint little houses nestle below the lighthouse. If the sea is calm, you'll have the opportunity to see porous or layered textures, remnants of the various lava flows. Ultimately, marine erosion has only further revealed these volcanic rocks, laying them bare. The site is resplendent! As you can see in the photo below, there's also a discreet waterfall that adds a touch of poetry to this already impressive scene.

▶ Accessibility : the lighthouse can be visited every Wednesday afternoon.

▶ On-site services : restrooms available.

▶ Entrance fee : free.

▶ Caution : It is strongly recommended not to drive down to the point where the lighthouse is located, due to the very steep drop. Some cars simply cannot make it back up! Free parking is available along the main road, just before the descent. I recommend walking the rest of the way.

5 - SETE CIDADES & LAGOA DO FOGO

Finally, we cannot ignore the volcanic landscapes that constitute the very essence of the island. Its geomorphology tells us the history of seismic activity, and today, all these formations remain accessible to contemplate for the enjoyment of all travelers. Let's discuss the two most coveted panoramas of the island: Sete Cidades and Lagoa do Fogo.

Perched at 856 meters above sea level, Sete Cidades isn't just a photogenic Instagram hotspot: it's a gigantic volcanic caldera, formed by the collapse of a volcano around 22,000 years ago. Since then, this volcano has erupted 22 times, making it the most active in the entire Azores archipelago. It's safe to say it doesn't like to go unnoticed; this volcano is clearly a geological drama queen! Its caldera measures 5 km in diameter and is around 500 meters deep. Although at the bottom of the caldera are four freshwater lakes, people come from all over the world to admire the two most iconic: Lagoa Azul (Blue Lake) and Lagoa Verde (Green Lake). These two lakes are separated by a bridge, but they are located in the same crater. Local legend tells of a princess who fell madly in love with a shepherd. Like any good tragic story, their love was forbidden. They each mourned a lake: green for the princess's eyes, blue for the shepherd's. Poetic, isn't it? In reality, the color of the lakes comes mainly from the reflections of light and vegetation, but that's certainly less romantic to say.

From a hydrological point of view, the caldera is one of the only endorheic sites in Europe: since the caldera's lakes have no natural outlet, a tunnel was dug through the northwest rim of the caldera to regulate the water level of the lakes depending, in particular, on rainfall. In terms of activities, several hikes are available to you since there are a few trails around the caldera. Do you prefer water activities? You'll be happy to know that it's possible to rent a kayak or stand-up paddleboard to peacefully sail around the lakes. If you want the ultimate postcard view, head to the Miradouro da Vista do Rei, the iconic observation point overlooking the two lakes. Don't forget to visit the town of Sete Cidades, a charming and picturesque village nestled literally at the bottom of the caldera.

▶ Accessibility : approximately 30 minutes by car from Ponta Delgada. Guided excursions are also available from the city. For example, you can spend the day exploring the surrounding area on a four-wheel all-terrain vehicle (UTV - Quad).

▶ On-site services : cafes, restaurants and toilets are available in the locality.

▶ Entrance Fee : all viewpoints and trails are free.

▶ Activities : half-day quad bike tour (4X4).

Standing proudly at 575 meters above sea level, Lagoa do Fogo (Lake of Fire) is the highest perched lake on the island. I honestly have no idea why it's so named, since the only thing burning here is the urge to take 347 photos! The latter was born around 15,000 years ago, in the crater left by the stratovolcano Água de Pau, which at the time decided to bow out in a spectacular collapse, thus creating this natural gem. The result? A giant caldera and a setting that would make the landscapes of Lord of the Rings look like Ikea decor! The last eruption was in 1563, and since then, the 30-meter-deep lake has been comfortably lodged at the bottom of the caldera. All around, steep slopes covered in lush vegetation create the kind of landscape that would make even the most stoic of travelers cry. And with its crystal clear waters, it's a setting worthy of a movie (especially if you have the opportunity to see it completely clear at sunrise or sunset). For my part, I went there for sunset and I was speechless at the incredible palette of colors that was born before my eyes. The nightfall has never been so beautiful! I recommend two locations to admire the site: Miradouro da Lagoa do Fogo and the Miradouro da Barrosa. Having the official status of protected nature reserve, Lagoa do Fogo is a small haven of peace for several types of birds who come to find comfort there.

▶ Accessibility : from mid-June to September, access is by shuttle only (Atlântico Energy Shuttle), from 9:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. Departures are from Casa da Água (Lagoa). Outside of the tourist season, it is possible to get there with your rental car free of charge.

▶ On-site services : none. Remember to bring what you need.

▶ Entrance fee : during tourist season, the shuttle costs 5 euros per person.

In short, São Miguel continues to fascinate visitors year after year, and the archipelago is gaining popularity thanks to its volcanic essence. The earth never quite sleeps. Even under the carpets of greenery, dormant craters, thermal waters, or cliffs battered by the Atlantic, you can still feel the ancient pulse of the fire that shaped the island. Here, even the lakes have complicated love lives, volcanoes take coffee breaks every few millennia, and the landscapes seem straight out of a tropical dream drawn by a romantic geologist. In short, whether you're taking a selfie at the top of a caldera, soaking up the local artisan culture (don't forget to taste the famous pastéis de nata), crossing the mystical vapors with the "perfumes" of sulfur, or even getting out of breath at your own pace while hiking, you'll leave with a telluric force within you, and memories full of your head.

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